At Milan Fashion Week, Sabato de Sarno unveiled a groundbreaking Gucci fall menswear collection. His designs, marked by sleek suits and luxurious knits, signal a fresh era for Gucci, blending traditional glamour with modern simplicity.
In his initial foray into men’s fashion at Milan fashion week, Sabato de Sarno showcased a distinctly different style from Alessandro Michele’s dreamy and opulent creations that were prominent in the late 2010s. De Sarno’s collection pivoted towards a more straightforward elegance. It featured sleek suits adorned with the Gucci emblem, loosely buttoned satin shirts, and robust knits complemented by polished peacoats, trench coats, and satin bomber jackets. A subtle nod to the past glamour was evident in the use of diamante on trousers, vests, and chokers.
De Sarno, Balancing Emotion and Practicality in Gucci’s New Direction
In his show notes, de Sarno described his Gucci Fall Menswear collection as celebrating life, passion, and humanity. He also stated that it emphasizes simplicity, confidence, and immediate emotions.
Kering, Gucci’s parent company, hopes that de Sarno, with his experience at luxury giants like Valentino and Prada, will steer Gucci toward robust profitability. The new collection’s practical luxury aligns with this goal, offering a broader appeal. The focus on leather goods, a significant revenue source for luxury brands, was evident. The Jackie bag, redesigned by Tom Ford in the 1990s and appealing to Gen Z, featured prominently, as did monogrammed rucksacks and bumbags.
Unlike Michele’s approach of blending menswear and womenswear, de Sarno has chosen to present them separately. However, the sentiment remains unified. His description of the collection as a narrative of music, nights out, and familial affection mirrors the themes in his womenswear collection, leaning towards restraint rather than abandonment.
Following the departure of Michele in 2022 and CEO Marco Bizzarri, Gucci is redefining its strategy under interim CEO Jean-François Palus. This includes operational restructuring, like relocating a significant portion of its design studio from Rome to Milan. This move sparked staff protests and a historic strike.
De Sarno’s Fresh Take on Gucci’s Fall Winter 24 Collection
De Sarno’s debut menswear collection for Fall Winter 24, presented at the Fonderia Carlo Macchi in Milan. It carries forward his vision to the male wardrobe, emphasizing quality, craftsmanship, and contemporary silhouettes with subtlety.
The collection introduces long, oversized coats and suits in muted colors like pale pink and navy blue, blending elegance and comfort for the winter. The iconic Jackie bag, a staple for male models in this collection, underscores its timeless appeal. De Sarno also reinterprets traditional ties with refined scarves, adding a touch of modernity.
While Gucci’s monogram maintains a discreet presence, the collection features a few extravagant pieces like high-cut tank tops and rhinestone pants.
This collection represents a significant evolution in men’s fashion under de Sarno’s direction. It showcases Gucci’s ability to innovate while respecting its heritage. It’s a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, solidifying Gucci’s place in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.
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