Most Impressive Runway Collections from Paris Menswear Fashion Week 24
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
The Issey Miyake team and artist Ronan Bouroullec showcased a collection that subtly redefines clothing as a medium for self-expression and comfort.
Bouroullec’s brushstroke art adorned the walls of the Palais de Tokyo, with models parading the designs imprinted on garments. The synergy between the artist’s vibrant, curved strokes and the pleated designs on the clothing was evident. The garments evolved in complexity, enveloping the models. Some even sported pillow-like accessories, which were compactly folded pleated coats.
These designs offered a sense of rest and comfort. The models wore pleated pants with discreet vents at the ankles. The design allows movement and revealing multicolored woven socks—this collection beautifully balanced complexity and simplicity.
Swollen Warriors of Rick Owens
Southern California’s own Rick Owens, often dubbed the ‘lord of darkness’. He has significantly impacted the fashion world with his distinct, dark aesthetic. His designs often play with unusual proportions, creating an almost eerie feel. For his Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Owens hosted 100 guests at his Parisian residence, a nod to the exact location where his journey began 25 years prior.
The event drew an international crowd of creatives, all eager to see Owens’ latest work. Owens organized three exclusive shows for the press, buyers, and friends. All shows showcase his unique vision through exaggerated designs that reflect his exceptional talent. The collection, named “PORTERVILLE,” pays homage to Owens’s hometown in California and celebrates key moments in his career with powerful and imposing designs.
The show opened with Owens’ favorite, Tyrone Dylan, making a striking entrance into the designer’s home. Dylan dressed in ribbed shorts and distinctive balloon-like shoes, a collaboration with London’s Straytukay. The innovative boots created a frictional sound as they moved. Meanwhile, English designer Leo Prothman offered a new take on the Kiss boot with strapped leather.
Models with darkened eyes donned hooded onesies, and oversized jumpers emblazoned with the sharp “Porterville” lettering. Owens’ signature pointed puffers made a dramatic statement, along with furry designs that exuded a timeless energy. Owens utilized upcycling in this collection, transforming bicycle tires into unique rubberized pieces. The lineup also featured structured motorcycle jackets and fur pieces ingeniously shaped into spherical forms. With this collection, Owens returned to his roots for FW24 and took us on a journey through time, inviting us into his mesmerizing world.
Cowboy Style of Louis Vuitton
Under the creative direction of menswear director Pharrell Williams, the 2024 fall and winter Paris Fashion Week menswear collection from Louis Vuitton showcased a unique blend of cowboy Western motifs. This fresh direction follows Williams’ previous work, where he merged American hip-hop influences with Louis Vuitton’s signature style. Thes style is seen in items like a cowboy hat adorned with the ‘LVERS’ logo and Timberland boots featuring the iconic monogram.
In this collection, Louis Vuitton brought the essence of country and Western styles to the forefront on the runway. The collection prominently featured the classic elements of American Western and workwear fashion, incorporating denim, blanket coats, buffalo checks, and chaps into various outfits. The American Western dandy aesthetic was central to the collection, highlighted through cowboy shirts and beaded workwear designs.
Moreover, Louis Vuitton collaborated with artists from the Dakota and Lakota tribes, enriching the collection with cultural authenticity. This collaboration was evident in the design of accessories, the stage setup for the show, and the soundtrack. Notable items included speedy bags, messenger bags, and travel tote bags intricately embroidered with the Dakota Flower symbol. The collection also featured leather hats and gloves, elegantly adorned with buckles and jewels. Furthermore, the collection emphasizes the fusion of luxury and Western themes.
Wales Bonner’s Dream Study
Wales Bonner unveiled its “Dream Study” collection for Fall/Winter 2024 during the second day of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, drawing inspiration from academic attire. The brand, known for its nostalgia-infused designs, consistently garners attention. Moreover, celebrities like Solange Knowles and Lewis Hamilton has endorsed it.
This season, Wales Bonner delved into American academic uniforms. The collection presents a collection rich in relaxed tailoring, loose knitwear, and spacious outerwear.
The designs featured baggy trousers paired with chunky long-sleeved polo tops and layered with raincoats, embodying a laid-back yet stylish aesthetic. Furthermore, the preppy vibe was further emphasized with “Howard” branded crewnecks and track pants. Merging comfort with a scholarly coolness, the design is ideal for intense study sessions.
Wales Bonner continued collaborating with Savile Row Tailor Anderson and Sheppard in tailoring. The suits were cut loosely, featured large pockets perfect for carrying books, and were complemented by collarless navy shirts with exaggerated button details. The collection also showcased Wales Bonner’s expanding womenswear line, with later looks including jackets worn without shirts for a bold fashion statement.
During a cold winter day in Paris, designer Ryota Iwai presented a collection that epitomized luxurious comfort, reminiscent of a warm embrace or a cozy fireplace. Envisioning individuals transitioning from work to relaxation, Iwai cleverly merged conventional office attire with the snugness of knits and the generosity of voluminous outerwear. He further emphasized his theme by uniquely styling these pieces with dry-cleaning bags.
Iwai’s collection was grounded in relatable staples — think classic tweed jackets, woolen overcoats, and sweaters worn as scarves — each given a fresh twist through his innovative approach to fabric development. This included using in-house developed, high-quality wools and unique blends, elevating the familiar to the extraordinary.
His designs featured boxy shapes that skillfully balanced sharpness and softness. Tailored suits were crafted in alpaca tweed, while outdoor jackets took on a new life in faded canvas dyed in unconventional colors. Textures were a focal point, with fluffy mohairs and combed melton wool adding depth to sporty separates and sleek column dresses. Bonded wool outerwear seamlessly married sturdiness with finesse, reimagining parkas and bomber jackets.
The collection’s color scheme was anchored in soothing browns and grays, interspersed with gentle pastels. Occasional bright splashes of turquoise, purple, and red enlivened the palette, adding an element of surprise and vibrancy to the comforting tones.
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